Trace the pattern onto your inner and outer fabrics. Make sure to transfer the elastic tack point marks to the WRONG SIDE of your INNER fabric. Cut your inner (solid teal) and outer (stripe) fabrics.
Measure and cut the amount of front soft (loop) Velcro indicated in your instructions for the size diaper you are making.
Center the Velcro well on the RIGHT SIDE (good or printed side that faces the outside of the diaper) of the DIAPER OUTER fabric. This should be attached on the front (tummy) end and should be placed approximately 1 inch from the cut line (see pictures below). You may or may not want to use pins to attach the Velcro before sewing.
Use a small zigzag stitch to attach the soft Velcro to your fabric, reinforcing the start and stop points.
Now attach your crossover tabs. Cut one piece of loop Velcro 1 ½ in long for the crossover tab. If you like to close the right side of the diaper first, place the crossover tab on the diaper wing to your LEFT when the GOOD SIDE of the fabric is facing you. If you like to close the left side of the diaper first, place the crossover tab on the diaper wing to your RIGHT when the GOOD SIDE of the fabric is facing you.
Center the Velcro on the diaper wing of your choice. The Velcro should be about ½ inch from the end of the tab. See the picture below for proper placement.
Sew the Velcro to the tab using a zigzag stitch, being sure to reinforce the start and stop points.
Cut two pieces of hook (rough) Velcro 1 ½ in long. Cut two pieces of loop (soft) Velcro 1 ½ in long (laundry tabs). Attach one piece of cut hook to one piece of cut loop by zigzag stitching back and forth several times to stitch the two together.
Center the Velcro pieces on the RIGHT SIDE of the diaper inner (good or printed side that will be the inside of the diaper) of one of the diaper wings. The rough Velcro should be closest to the outside edge of the wing and the soft Velcro should be towards the center of the diaper (see the pictures below).
Use a small zigzag stitch to attach the Velcro to the diaper inner, reinforcing the start and stop points. Repeat steps on the other diaper wing.
Sew the casing for the outer fabric by folding the extra tab of fabric down towards the WRONG side of the fabric and use a straight stitch to finish the casing. Make sure to reinforce the stop and start points by reverse stitching over the first and last few stitches (see pictures below).
If you are making a pocket diaper then do the same for the inner fabric. If you are making an All in One, PUL sandwich, or fitted, DO NOT sew a casing for the diaper inner fabric.
Measure and cut the amount of back elastic indicated in pattern above for the size diaper you are making. Insert a safety pin into the elastic about ¼ inch from one of the ends of the elastic and close the pin (Don’t attach the pin too close to the end of the elastic otherwise you will lose the pin and have to open your seam and start all over).
Push the pin into the OUTER fabric casing and keep pushing it further and further into the casing until the other end of the elastic is even with the casing edge.
Tack the end of the elastic down by going sewing back and forth 3-4 times (secure it well; you don’t want to loose your elastic inside the casing).
Continue pushing the safety pin towards the end of the casing, bunching and gathering the fabric as you go. Once the safety pin reaches the end of the casing, tack the elastic down well (sew back and forth across the elastic 3-4 times). **I suggest keeping the safety pin on the elastic until you have finished tacking both elastic ends to your fabric. If you loose the elastic as you are trying to tack it down it will be VERY DIFFICULT to retrieve the elastic without starting over. Trim excess elastic.
Place the outer and inner fabrics right sides (good sides) together and the wrong sides facing out. Starting at one end of the extra tab of fabric in the back of the diaper, use a ¼ inch seam to sew the outer and inner layers together with a straight stitch.
Continue sewing around the diaper until you reach the other end of the extra tab of fabric in the back of the diaper. When you are finished, the two layers should be sewn together except for an open pocket in the back of the diaper. Trim the excess fabric all the way around the stitching.
Measure and cut the amount of leg elastic indicated in the table above for the size diaper you are making. Tack one end of elastic to one leg at the top leg elastic mark (you should have marked these directly on your inner fabric).
The following step may take some practice. You may want to practice on a scrap to make sure that you get the stretching down well before applying elastic to your diaper. Extra elastic has been provided for this purpose.
With your main hand (the one you write with) pull the elastic taut. Use your other hand to guide the part of the diaper that is already beyond the presser foot. Start sewing along the 1/4 seam that you already created when you sewed the two diaper layers together with a zig zag stitch stretching the elastic as taut as possible with your main hand as you sew. Sew a few stitches, stretch the elastic again, and sew a few more. Use enough stretch on the elastic so that by the time you reach the bottom leg elastic mark you use the entire piece of elastic that you measured.
Tack the end of the elastic to the bottom elastic mark. Repeat steps on the other leg.
Bring the right sides of the diaper out by pulling them through the opening in the back of the diaper. Push out all the corners so that the diaper lays well.
If you are sewing an All In One, Fitted, or Sandwich PUL diaper, fold the extra tab of fabric on the diaper outer into the opening at the back of the diaper and close the back opening permanently by sewing along the edge of the diaper using a ¼ inch seam and a straight stitch. Remember to reinforce your start point. BE SURE TO AVOID SEWING THE BACK ELASTIC AS YOU DO THIS!!!
If you are sewing a pocket diaper start topstitching at one end of the pocket opening and finish at the other end leaving the pocket open.
Continue sewing around the outer perimeter of the diaper. When you come to the leg elastic area, stretch the elastic completely so that the fabric lays as straight as possible. Increase your seam allowance, and AVOID sewing the elastic. I like to keep the right side of the presser foot next to the elastic as I sew so that I'm sure I won't tack the elastic down during this step.
When you pass by the elastic, return to a ¼ seam and continue to sew around the diaper avoiding the other leg elastic in the same way (see pictures below). Be sure to reinforce your stop point.
You're finished! Congratulations!